Zuhair Murad Spring 2014 Couture

By one count, Zuhair Murad's wedding dress alone bloomed with upwards of 25,000 floral appliqués. The mystical garden segment of his collection overall contained a multitude of camellias, roses, peonies, gentian, and more, all shimmering atop gowns, jumpsuits, and cocktail frocks. He added fauna to complement the flora: Black sequins delineated a zebra print, and feathers crept up the neck of a gauzy halter gown. Embroidery on a full-length white caftan revealed a python print down the body and panther spots along the sleeves.

Outside his garden, a grouping of daywear looks featured ivory suiting—pencil skirts, trousers, open jackets—all fronted in a double row of gold buttons. The look was his Parisian ideal, Murad explained before the show. Then he singled out a New Look-style outfit in guipure lace as his synthesis of modern femininity. But if any pieces in the collection adhered to that description, they were the ones that showed off the upper back, their fabric scooped out or cross-strapped like swimsuits.

This was an overzealous collection for the designer, who continues to hold firm to classic, OTT notions of couture. Even his pastel hues appeared extra saturated, as if viewed through an Instagram filter. It feels somewhat Debbie Downer to rain on Murad’s petal parade—and his dolled-up devotees were definitely cheering from the sidelines—but there’s no question he’s stronger when working in a lower register. A couple hundred fewer flowers next time, perhaps. 
Alex Veblen
PARIS